Wednesday, February 17th, 2010
What kind of discounts can I anticipate during a blowout sale of the 2008 Nissan Altimas when they start stocking the ‘09 models?
The MSRP is around $21,000 now before their big sales. What would be your best guess as for the price asked for then and how much I could knock off that price while negotiating?
Thanks in advance!
The best guess will be invoice minues the rebates, which if you try hard enough you could get invoice right now, prices are set on new cars, dealers cant really do anything "spectacular" to make them any cheaper.
Just go in to the "blow out sale" and tell them you will pay invoice minus the rebates and thats it. Be open about the car you take, they will be more willing to do invoice if you take one thats in stock.
Technorati Tags: Best Guess, Blow Out, Blowout, Blowout Sale, Car Sale, Cars Dealers, Models, Msrp, new car, new cars, Nissan, Nissan Altimas, Rebates, Stock, Thanks In Advance
Posted in new car sale | 1 Comment »
Tuesday, February 16th, 2010
Thoroughly clean the inside, wash and detail the outside, tires, and rims. The auto parts stores sell an engine wash that can be sprayed on (cool engine of course) and washed off to de-oxidize the metals. It’s not worth putting too much time and money into a car that won’t bring top dollar anyway. Focus on the performance aspect when selling it. If everything is in good working order and it will easily pass inspection , you will get as much as is possible out of it. Mileage has a big impact on what others are willing to pay. Good records of periodic maintenance also help. Good Luck!
Technorati Tags: Auto Parts Stores, Car New, Car Sale, Good Luck, Metals, Mileage, Performance Aspect, Periodic Maintenance, Rims, Time And Money, Tires, Top Dollar
Posted in new car sale | 2 Comments »
Tuesday, February 16th, 2010
Price range: $20K to 25K. Big discounts or low APR preferable.
This is such a broad question. If you are looking for a car, try the Ford Fusion ot the Ford Five Hundred. Both are offering great incentives, and are right in that price range! E-mail me direct if you have any more questions at stevenlaureys@hotmail.com s. Laureys
Technorati Tags: Car Information, Car Price, Car Sale, E Mail, Ford, Ford Five Hundred, Ford Fusion, Hotmail, Incentives, Information Price, new car
Posted in new car sale | 1 Comment »
Tuesday, February 16th, 2010
Classic cars for sale are big business these days. There is no shortage of unscrupulous people who will take your money and vanish!
To be a knowledgeable buyer, the biggest chunk of your time will be spent in what I call the homework or prep stage. Probably 70 percent of your time will be spent studying classic car sale information, researching, and consulting with trusted friends or experts as to the authenticity and details of the car. After you have done your homework, the rest is a simple buying transaction. The more prepared a buyer, the smoother and faster the transaction.
What this means is you will need to invest the necessary time and money to thoroughly research what you are buying. It is all about the preparation. The one thing that rings true is either you are going to spend the time or money to investigate your potential purchase or you hire an expert to handle the transaction for start to finish.
Three Tips to Prevent Classic Car Scams
1. Know What You Want to Purchase
The top details for clarity are knowing what you are looking for, how much you have to spend, and how far you are willing to travel. Buying a vintage classic or muscle car is an exercise in search and process of elimination. Think of yourself as a modern day Sherlock Holmes. There is no use in looking at a show car if you can realistically only afford a project car or a weekend cruiser.
Because the internet has made our world smaller, do not waste a buyer’s time if they live halfway across the country and you are only willing to buy locally.
Check the NADA price guide so you have a ballpark of what the car will cost depending on condition. If the deal is too good to be true, (Are you really going to buy a 1969 Camaro in great condition for $5000?) then it could be scam. If you contact the seller and they insist on wiring a deposit, then you will know for sure it is a scam. Guaranteed you will never see the cash again!
2. Research Your Vehicle
Buying a classic car has become serious business. Classic cars for sale are now selling for what I paid for my first house. Would you buy a house with out having a house inspection? Probably not. The same goes with buying a muscle car for sale. Do your research. Get as much information as you can about the make, model, and year, and options of the car. The more educated you are about the car, the better you can negotiate if needed. And it also indicates to the seller that you know what you are talking about.
The internet makes it easy to do research. Join a forum that is focused on the type of car you are looking to buy. I know serious car collectors who will not buy a car unless they bring in an expert or guru to look at it first. If it is good enough for them, it is probably an idea you may want to consider. There nothing wrong about not knowing everything about a car. You definitely want to avoid paying for what looks like a highly desirable car only to find out that it is a clone.
Many people have saved themselves thousands and even hundreds of thousands of dollars just by paying an expert to inspect and document a car. If the car is extremely desirable and rare, the old adage of you can pay me now, or you can pay me later applies. Either hire an expert, or talk with someone you trust who can help you look at the car. Online car forums and clubs are great resources for this type of information.
3) Make Sure All Your Questions Get Answered
Do not be afraid to ask questions. Having clarity gives you the confidence to make a buying decision. This serves many purposes. Before you physically look at the car, contact the seller and ask the important questions.
Here are a number of key questions to ask the seller even if the details are not mentioned in the ad (This can double check the seller’s credibility that they really do know the details about their car). I find asking questions in categories is useful in organizing the information.
Engine, Drive Train, Options
* What is original to the car? (Engine, transmission, differential)
* Drive train specs (hp, engine size, rear axle ratio, transmission type)
* Options – A/C PS, PB, Vinyl roof, trim packages
* How does it run?
Body and Interior
* Interior color and condition?
* Body panels original, any accidents, frame damage, paint and body panel condition?
* Currently inspected and roadworthy or project restoration car?
* Mileage and any known mechanical problems?
Title and Price
* Does the car have a “clean” title?
* What is the asking price or at least a ballpark figure
How does it look?
* Can you get detailed digital pictures? If so, get A LOT so you can see every detail.
* Send to experts or post on a forum for opinions. The seller may think the car is all original, but may not know. An expert can spot the obvious.
Logistics
* Will they allow you to bring in an expert, or independent third party to
inspect and verify the car (If not, RUN from the deal. Do not walk)?
* Is there a place locally where you could arrange to put the car up on
a lift and do a visual and physical inspection?
This may sound like a lot of work, but it is fundamental for a solid transaction where you get exactly what you want.
The best piece of advice I can offer is to remember you are in control of the
transaction. If there is something that does not feel right about the car or the seller or anything related to the transaction, let it go. This includes being pressured by a seller to make a quick decision. If a deal is going to work, it needs to be natural and a win-win situation for both parties. There is normally something fishy going on, if a seller starts to hard close a deal. There is no use in trying to force a deal to work from either party.
Your Dream Car Finder makes finding, authenticating and delivering your dream car easy!
Tim Leary
Technorati Tags: 1969 Camaro, Authenticity, Camaro, Car Sale, Cars For Sale, Chunk, Classic Car, Classic Cars For Sale, Knowledgeable Buyer, Modern Day Sherlock, Muscle Car, Necessary Time, Prep Stage, Process Of Elimination, Project Car, Proof Techniques, Sherlock Holmes, Show Car, Vintage Classic, What This Means
Posted in new car sale | No Comments »
Monday, February 15th, 2010
I had a dealer back out of a car sale today after we both signed the contract and purchase agreement for the price they gave me for the VIN. & model I wanted. As well as they charged my card for the first and last months payment. While I was waiting for the plate runner to return with my new plates the sales manager stated that they couldnt do the deal for the price and needed to charge me an additional $4000.00. They wouldn’t let me take the car and stated that they couldnt honor the deal they wrote up. Please help if you have knowlage on this sort of topic.
Note : I have both signed docs. as well as my receipt for payment of first/last.
Offer and acceptance. The contract is binding, and he may not charge you an additional $4000. If he refuses to sell you the car at the agreed price, you can go out and buy a replacement car (same model, features, etc.) for the next-best price you can and then bill / sue the dealer for the difference between what you paid and the contract price.
Let him know that the deal is governed by the UCC § 2-713, and if he doesn’t perform then you’ll sue him in small claims court for damages. But first make sure that the contract terms don’t specify that he’s allowed to terminate without cause before delivery.
Technorati Tags: Amp, Buy Car, Car Deal, Car Model, Car Sale, Contract Agreement, Contract Price, Contract Terms, Damages, Docs, Model Features, New Car Dealer, New Deal, Offer And Acceptance, Purchase Agreement, Receipt, Replacement Car, Sell Car, Small Claims Court, Vin
Posted in new car sale | 5 Comments »
Sunday, February 14th, 2010
My 77 year old father moved to Michigan and lives alone. He bought a new jeep and for no reason traded it in on one 6 mos. new, same exact color and everything. We later found out he had a seizure and memory loss and was hospitalized in a pysicartic ward for a few weeks. He is much better, but not totally mentally stable. He just went and bought another new jeep, traded in the 2nd one with only 400 miles on it. The dealer only gave him $2200 and he still owed $2400. He had free financing on the one he traded in, but not on this new one. He called up one day after he got it and asked to bring it back and they told him no, they already filed the title. What can I do to make them take it back and not cost him a lot of money, which he does not have?
>>Does Michigan have a cooling off period for a new car sale?<<
Yes, it’s called January… (Dang it’s cold here!!!)
Technorati Tags: Car Sale, Cooling Off Period, Dang, Exact Color, Jeep, Lt, Memory Loss, Money, new car, New Year, Reason, Seizure
Posted in new car sale | 1 Comment »
Friday, February 12th, 2010
One salesman told me he makes $100 per vehicle he sells. Is this accurate? I know it’ll vary from location to location, and dealer to dealer, but the AVERAGE?
On a new car on average bout $250 add on’s extended warranty’s etc that is where big $$ is made and the salesman doesn’t see that.
Used cars are much better more profit can be made,Pay $2000 for a trade in and resale it for $8000 (done every day) the dealership takes out prep charges and service and and and then the salesman get a % of profit made. Then commission could be in the $500 to $800 range depends .
When I was a green pea (new salesman) I got $150 per sale no matter what the profit was… with a Base of $1500 a month (6 days a week 12 hour days) when I went straight commission I averaged bout $300 per car sold 12 to 16 cars a month. Most average salesperson will make $25k a year starting out and get up to $40k after a few years. BUT at a good dealership and with large amount of UP’s (customers) the average sales person will make $60 to 80K some will make over $100k but you have to have large volume of customers and sell 30 cars a month. That’s hard I have HEARD some sales people selling over 100 cars a month … never seen it…..
Technorati Tags: 100k, Car Sale, Car Salesman, Car Salesmen, cars, Extended Warranty, Green Pea, new car, Prep Charges, Sales Person, Salesperson, Straight Commission, warranty
Posted in new car sale | 8 Comments »
Friday, February 12th, 2010
I’m planning on part exchanging a 2 year old Mercedes (yep, because of fuel cost!) for a cheaper, more economical model.
Can anyone advise if franchised dealers have a minimum "cost to change" figure when taking a part exchange in return for a new car sale?
The differential between my current car and the one I want will be about £800 – £1200 and I wondered if dealers will just want to see more cash out of the deal in order to be interested. Thanks
Generally, yes, especially for your model.
The risk they have is of buying in a car which will be slow to sell and depreciate in value whilst sitting on their forecourt. At the moment, good mpg cars are selling like hotcakes and low mpg models are plummeting in value and are slow to move without heavy discounting.
With a model such as yours, a buyer would also expect the car to be retailed on a virtually "as new" basis, so the dealer would have to service the car and prepare it to the highest standards and then provide a warranty comparable to a new car. All of these things cost the dealer a lot of up-front money.
To try and offset these issues, the dealer has to offer you the absolute minimum possible and currently it’s often below what current printed and online price guides are indicating. The dealer also knows that fuel-efficient cars are selling very strongly at the moment so not only have the windscreen prices gone up but the dealer also has less incentive to offer a discounted price.
Your cost to change will therefore likely be somewhat higher than you planned.
Technorati Tags: Buying A New Car, Buying Car, Car Sale, Current, Differential, Economical Model, Forecourt, Front Money, Fuel Cost, Fuel Efficient Cars, Lot, Models, Old Mercedes, Price Guides, Risk, warranty, Windscreen Prices
Posted in new car sale | 2 Comments »
Saturday, February 6th, 2010
there is the msrp price. and invoice price.
however the dealer has to get the car way below invoice, right?
Because if the sales guy gets a commission. and the deal needs to make money.
so what do car salesmen make on a car sale?
Each dealer has their own pay plan. MSRP and INVOICE have nothing to do with it, so the first two answers here, are basically not an answer at all. On a new car, car dealerships hardly make any money. On used cars, they have to sell the car quickly in order for their profit to stay high.
A dealer I used to work for was 30% of the GROSS profit on the car, was what we were paid, and there was a minimum of $250 per new car, and $150 per used car. That sounds like a lot, but when you’re selling a new car that is so heavily discounted, the dealer loses money to sell it, or only make $400-500, you’re actually better off getting your $250 minimum. On used, where a car might have $2000 profit in it, you can make $600 or so on some cars.
People have a misconception that dealers make tons of money on new cars, and used cars are a steal. In all honesty, most dealers lose money on new cars, and make money on used cars – if they do it right.
Some dealers that are "one price" or "non-negotiable" on their pricing, they have a pay plan based on the number of cars they sell. This is what my dealership does. As a salesman, I get paid a flat-fee per car that I sell, and then there is a bonus scale at the end of the month based on the number of cars I sell. So, I dont care if I sell a $3000 beater that some kid buys, or a $40000 SUV, it makes no difference. If we have a car that we’re losing $1000 to sell because we’ve had it on the lot for 8 months, I dont care. A car is a car, and it’s just another checkmark on the board for my pay.
Lets say I get $250 per car, and I sell 15 cars. That’s $3,750 in commission, plus 15 cars gets me another $1,000 bonus. We get some bonuses for financing, warranties, etc, but that’s maybe $30-$70 per car. So if I sold 15 cars, I’d expect to make around $6000-6500 depending on how the bonsues work out that month.
Believe me, unless you’re REALLY good at this….it’s actually not as lucritive of a job as many people think it is.
Technorati Tags: Bonus, Car Car, Car Dealerships, Car Sale, Car Salesmen, Car Sounds, Cars Dealers, Checkmark, Gross Profit, Honesty, Invoice Price, Misconception, Msrp, Msrp Price, new car, new cars, Sell Car, Tons Of Money, Two Answers, Warranties
Posted in new car sale | 2 Comments »
Thursday, February 4th, 2010
Theres this car for sale down the street for 5000.00 can i get a loan to get it and pay a bank payment or can you only get car loans through a dealer?
Yes, if you meet the credit and debt/income requirements of the lender and the car is worth at least $5,000, you should have no problem.
Unless it is a ‘buy here, pay here’ lot, the dealer will go through a bank to get you approved, anyways. I suggest you do the legwork on your own. You can usually find a better rate than the dealer if you have decent credit.
Also, if you have decent credit, I would stay away from ‘buy here pay here’ lots. When they do their own financing, the APR is usually outrageous (20+%) and they make you pay every 2 weeks.
Technorati Tags: Bank Payment, Car Dealer, Car For Sale, Car Loan, Car Loans, Car Sale, Car Worth, Income Requirements, Legwork, Sale Car
Posted in new car sale | 6 Comments »